Posts tagged “Mid Range”

Choosing A Scuba Dive Regulator – How Best To Decide

With so many combinations and so much terminology used in scuba snorkelling, no wonder you are finding it difficult to know where to begin when it comes to knowing what to choose in a scuba dive regulator. So lets try and keep it as simple as possible by going through some of the basics you will need to cover.

 


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Video on how to use a Scuba Dive Regulator. The very basic points of a dive regulator are:

  • Ergonomic design and easy to hold
  • A purge button which is easily pressed even when wearing 6mm neoprene gloves
  • External controls which let you make fine adjustments to air flow
  • Non-corroding metals like titanium or chromed brass
  • Diaphragm vs. piston mechanics. Many divers prefer diaphragm regulators for its smooth movement and its moving parts are less
  • Balanced vs. unbalanced regulators. Almost all regulators are balanced. Do not buy an unbalanced regulator.
  • Always buy new. Do not pick up a cheap second-hand regulator; it may be faulty or reconditioned
  • Look for a warranty
  • Swivel joints on the second stage offer improved ease of movement
  • Hose should be soft and flexible
More Scuba Dive Regulators for sale here
Aeris
Akona
Aqualung
Cressi
Dacor
Dive Rite
Genesis
Hollis
Mares
Oceanic
Oms
Poseidon
Scuba Max
Scubapro
Sherwood
Tusa
XS Scuba
Zeagle

 

More details on scuba dive regulators from Dave Huscroft with his explanations.

 

Balanced/Unbalanced/Overbalanced Diving Regulators

These diving terms can be confusing until you know what they mean – an unbalanced dive regulator performs worse as the scuba diving tank empties, and should be avoided in all but the most basic diving.

 

A balanced dive regulator will deliver the same amount of air at all pressures and depths – a balanced dive regulator is usually mid-range and are most common.

 

An overbalanced diving regulator is one which makes breathing easier as you go deeper – these are usually towards the top of the range.

 

Yoke/A-Clamp vs DIN

These are the two different types of fitting for attaching your scuba diving regulator to your tank. Your decision will probably be based on where you are diving – in the UK the A-Clamp fitting is most popular, whereas abroad the DIN fitting is more prevalant.

 

Technically speaking, the DIN fitting is better as you will need this if you want to use a 300bar tank – A-Clamp is only good for 232bar, although this is by far the most common.

 

If you buy an A-Clamp you can buy a DIN kit (around £25-35) to convert it though, and there are also A-Clamp adapters for DIN regs for a similar price.

 

Coldwater safe diving regulators

If you plan to scuba dive in the UK, especially at inland dive sites you need a regulator that can still perform. The problem is that when the air goes from high pressure in your dive tank to low pressure you need to breathe, it cools a lot – sometimes leading to freeflow when in very cold water.

 

There are two main ways the diving regulator companies have come up with – one is to seal the first stage completely, which some manufacturers do (Apeks for example) while others have more sophisticated systems – Scubapro’s TIS (Thermal Insulating System) for example is particularly good. If you are diving in cold waters (around 5 degree celcius or lower) then you really need to choose a good cold water regulator.

 

Piston vs Diaphragm Diving Regulators

A piston based regulator is very simple, and provide better performance at depth. Piston diving regulators cannot be overbalanced. Diaphragm diving regulators are more complex, but are less likely to have mechanical problems as the internal parts aren’t exposed to the water, which can be the case with piston based regulators.

 

When buying a new diving regulator, don’t worry about it – both provide perfectly fine performance for almost all recreational scuba diving.

 

Nitrox Ready Regulators

Most scuba diving regulators are suitable for up to 40% nitrox without any modification. If you require a higher o2 content then you need to go for a nitrox diving regulator – these are usually green to distinguish them and have been properly cleaned. One other consideration is that you can’t use Nitrox with titanium diving regulators.

 

How can the above be applied to real world examples? If you have some preferences in scuba diving regulators, please let us know.

 

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